About a week ago I had an unsettling experience that haunts me even to this day. I was riding around when a massive and sudden thunderstorm broke through the sky. Initially, I tried to ride through it but the rain was just too oppressive and I could barely see the road more than a few feet ahead. To my left there were a bunch of Thai men standing under a gazebo like structure. Refuge.
I parked my bike and stood at the very end of the long structure waiting for the rain to stop, hoping that these guys didn’t mind the presence of a foreigner. Some of the men were huddled in a semi-circle around a pile of cash and playing cards. A lot of them had tattoos and hard looks on their faces. “These are probably not the kind of people you want to cross,” I thought. A couple of the guys were in uniform, soldiers of some sort. One of the guys comes up to me and starts talking to me in Thai, motioning that the weather is shit. I agreed. Then he grabs my arm and pulls me over to where the rest of the men are standing. He insists that I take a seat, then sits down right next to me. After a couple of minutes there are four guys sitting around me all trying to speak to me in a language I don’t understand. It was making me nervous with all of those people around me, asking me questions that I couldn’t answer. This was the countryside and if anything were to happen to me, I doubt anybody would ever know. A guy drunkenly walked up, looked at my cigarette, and motioned that he wanted a drag. Hmmmm… I handed him my cigarette and he proceeded to smoke the whole thing. This was starting to feel like a bad scene from a prison movie. The winds and rain got worse and one of the nearby trees had just come crashing down. When am I going to be able get out of here?
We were on the move again. The guys walked me over to another group of men and presented me in front of the eldest one. He looked quite disturbed and emotionally unstable. I assumed that it was just a traditional thing that I need to pay my respects to the eldest of the group. So I put my hands together in front of my heart and bowed my head deeply. The man just looked at me, no reaction at all. Okaaaaaaaay.
We’re sitting back down again and the rain is starting to settle a bit. A younger guy comes up to us with a rather jovial look on his face and starts speaking English to me. We’re chatting about this and that. He offers me some beer and says something to the effect of “your happiness is our happiness” and asks if I’m having a good time. His personality was so different from the rest of the people there that initially I didn’t trust it, I thought he might have been being sarcastic, but he wasn’t.
Then a man walked up and pointed over to the smoldering fire that people were starting to congregate around. “Yeah, I see that there’s a fire there.” “Do you want to take a picture?” he asks. Then grabs my arm to try to walk me over to the fire. As I stand up, the young man with the jovial face grabs my other arm, shakes his head, and pulls me to sit back down. His expression had changed. Like there was something that he couldn’t talk about, but was troubling him deeply. WTF. What situation did I just walk into. A few minutes later the guy tries to pull me over the fire again, this time my friend makes no attempt to stop him. So we walk. The men are trying to get the fire going again, rearranging bamboo sticks and pouring gasoline on the smoking pile. I put my hands out to absorb the heat and rub my arms to show my appreciation for him bring over to the fire. He points to a long object in the fire, then runs his finger down the middle of his back. Yep, I see the vertebrae in the fire and honestly wonder what they had been cooking. In my mind I start analyzing the bones. Way too small for a cow, yet way too big for a pig. The man points again and says “hips.” I’m starting to get the worst kind of feeling from looking at those bones. “It couldn’t be.” I was freaking out, pulled a pen and a notebook from my bag, and drew an image of a cow. Point to the drawing. Point to the bones. Point back to the drawing. Look at the man’s face. He shakes his head no. “Pork,” I ask in Thai. Then the young man with the jovial face walks up on my other side and says “No. It’s a man.”
The rain had been clearing up and no more than 60 seconds after learning that there was a man in the fire, I was back on my bike heading back home. At the time none of it made sense, but the more I thought about it the more I realized what had been going on, I had been at a cremation. The men weren’t criminals or thugs. They were just doing what people do when you lose a loved one, try to numb the pain. Perhaps the man in the fire liked to gamble and they were playing his favorite game. The “mentally unstable” old man was certainly the deceased person’s grief stricken father. Still, they were able to be concerned about my well-being and help me my pick up my bike when it had been blown over by the winds. I dunno. That night, thinking about it, it made me want to cry. The idea of this foreigner just walking into something so personal and sacred and warming his arms on the fire that’s taking your son’s body away from this earth.









