A Southern Italian mom's heaven.

When I said I wanted to gain ten pounds on pasta in Italy, I didn’t actually want the lbs to produce a double chin in my last pictures from the trip (which is inconveniently in the Amalfi Coast, where I only wear bathing suits). But here I am at week six in carb country and I’m 6 pounds heavier than when I left the States. I’m just about pasta-ed out, but before heading out of the country, the Jet Set Italy crew wanted to learn the secret to making chewy spindles of pasta so we can star at future dinner parties. If I’m going to be chubby, I’m bringing you all down with me.
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Bogdan shooting film on the hills with our guidedog "Jo Mama". CLICK FOR SLIDESHOW.

Around 7:30 this morning we heard the clattering of cowbell coming from the mountain behind our house.  We looked up to find a man, around 70-years-old, herding sheep down the cliff in an adept manner that brought to mind Heidi‘s grandfather working the Swiss Alps.

Many times I have compared teaching elementary-aged children to herding sheep so I was eagerly taking notes on his techniques for keeping stray members in line.  Ten minutes after we spotted his hillside descent, the cowbell sounds grew riotous and I realized the sheep were running down the street on our block.  I was immediately intrigued.

Bogdan and I resolved to follow the sheep’s commute and as soon as I got out of camp today we trekked up to the mountain peak.  The route was clearly untrodden and there was no path so we made our way through rocks and thickets of thorn bushes that Big Bog deemed, “The Napoli Slashers”.  Luckily our housedog — who Bogdan nicknamed “Jo Mama” — came along and guided us much of the way.  Our legs were bleeding and our bodies sweating by the time we made it to the top but it was worth all the work.  Seeing the stunning, rare view of Salerno reminded me exactly why I quit my job and chose to live abroad instead of popping through as a tourist.

ACLE students snuggle up to a couple resident nuns

We have been in Salerno, Italy for four days. The scenery is mixed: by day we work at a nunnery, and by night we play in a sorority.

Some of our Salerno "sorority" housemates

Turning heads as the only girls jumping off this sea-rock, greasy-haired men in Speedos, men lathering women with baby oil (a trend I swear went out with aluminum tanning in the 50s...), beautiful views and Perrin and Bogdan on the bus (I judge a country by its public transportation and so far Italy's is top-notch).

In lieu of religion, I am devoutly American but was surprisingly OK with missing the barbecues and poolside toasts back home yesterday.  Perrin, Bogdan and I are spending the next week in Southern Italy and we celebrated the holiday on a Salerno beach with beers, greasy-haired men in Speedos, 13 year-old make out fiends and women covered in baby oil for extra sun appeal.  This small city at the start of the Amalfi Coast was packed Rehoboth Beach style, but surrounded by stunningly beautiful steep hills that blow away Deleware’s fold-up Boardwalk fairs.