A game I would play in one of my English classes was to give students a list of questions that they had to answer (and then guess each other’s answers). One of the standard questions I had devised was “Name a Hero”. With the first group I tried this with, every student’s response was “Ho Chi Minh”. “Wow”, I thought. “Unanimous”. In the next class, one student responded with “Spiderman”, and everyone else said Ho Chi Minh. Results in my other classes were the same.  I began to understand the reverence Vietnamese people have for this legendary man…

Educated in Paris and influenced by Stalin and Mao, “Uncle Ho” was a Communist revolutionary who forever changed the face of Vietnam. He led the Viet Minh independence movement and was leader of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam from 1945 until 1969, when he passed away. He is an integral part of Vietnam’s history in the 20th century, and to say the people admire him is an understatement.

I cannot emphasize the love the Vietnamese people have for this man. His face appears on every banknote, the city of Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City after his death, and the vast majority of locals speak lovingly of him.

His body is on display at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in Hanoi, in a granite structure modeled after Lenin’s tomb in Moscow. Interestingly enough, Ho Chi Minh wished to be cremated and his ashes spread across Vietnam, but he also expressed his wish against being canonized and, well, that didn’t quite go as requested either.

Jen and I made a visit to the Mausoleum while in Hanoi. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but I’m seen quite a few mummies in my time so it took me by surprise to see how well-preserved his frail little body was. It honestly looked like he was simply taking a nap. The visitors stream past him quietly and reverentially, paying their respects. It is truly like a pilgrimage for many, and a highlight of Vietnam for myself.

"It is better to sacrifice everything than to live in slavery!"

The Temple of Literature in Hanoi was built in 1070 by Emporer Ly Thanh Tong and is the location of Vietnam’s first university. It is still in good condition (compared to a lot of other historical sites we’ve seen) and is a great example of Vietnamese architecture.

The temple itself is dedicated to Confucius and contains 82 stelae inscribed with the names, birthplaces, and achievements of exceptional scholars. The stelae (pictured below) are mounted on top of stone tortoises, which represent wisdom, learning and stability. A visit here is awesome and a welcome escape from the busy city of Hanoi.

The outer gateway. Be sure to dismount!

Confucius says...

The stone stelae, inscribed in ancient Chinese.

Apparently there is a strong “food” theme in my posts. Let’s continue that, shall we?

I had walked past Fanny’s Ice Cream Parlour almost every day on my way to work in Saigon and had always managed to engage my willpower to continue walking past its doors. Price was also a factor – it labels itself as “gourmet ice cream” and prices it as such. If I needed my fix, I’d cheap out and go get a delicious Black Forest Cornetto for $0.75 instead.

Jen and I were in Hanoi, lamenting on the fact that we were back in the traffic and noise of the city after weeks of relative quiet and solitude. We had spent a few hours walking through the French Quarter, where I had hoped to find a giant block of cheese to gorge on. Turns out the French Quarter isn’t as French as I thought it would be and we were headed back to the Old Quarter empty-handed when we passed a Fanny’s Parlour. I noticed a sign outside that announced a relatively new promotion: on the first Friday on each month they do an “all-you-can-eat” ice cream buffet for $4.  ”What day is it?” I demanded of Jen. “Friday” was her reply. “WHAT’S THE DATE?” I shouted, my voice betraying the excitement I felt. “The fifth”, she said, as the realization dawned in her eyes.

Oh, happy day. We decided to forego dinner and consume as much ice cream as humanly possible. It was glorious. It’s actually a really social event, frequented mostly by young Vietnamese folks. Everyone mills about the room, glass dish or cone in hand and chats, giving it the atmosphere of a bar. They have over 30 flavours including chocolate chili, banana and young rice, as well all the regular classics.

In the end, Jen ate 21 scoops of ice cream and claimed that she was close to vomiting. The competitive streak in me came out, bringing my total to 21 scoops plus a scoop in a cone for the walk home. Oh yeah, plus the crepes and the fruit dipped in the chocolate fountain. It caused the tummy to hurt but made us so, so happy.

We’ve posted about eating dog before. We went to a local restaurant in Saigon a couple months back that specializes in dog meat (or “doggie” as they call it here). Serene ate it by accident that night and was pretty upset. I tried it at a dinner party and I have to say, it was quite delicious. It’s not something I’m planning on eating on a regular basis, but I’ll try anything once. But in Northern Vietnam, it’s a lot easier to find on the menu…

I first noticed the difference from south to north when I saw “thit cho” on a lot of the signs. My Vietnamese is practically non-existent but I do know that this is the phrase for dog. Once I had seen it a couple times, I started looking for it and I realized that it’s found all over the place up here. In Hanoi, there’s a 1km-long district of dog meat joints. There’s definitely a stronger prevalence for dog-eating in the north.

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