Throughout Southern and Central Vietnam, you can find many Cham towers still standing. The kingdom of Champa thrived between the 2nd and the 15th centuries, and the ancient site of Mỹ Sơn was once the most important centre of this kingdom. Set in a jungle valley near Hoi An, it was built in the 4th century. The French rediscovered it in the late 19th century and took on the task of restoration. At its peak, there stood 68 structures but heavy American bombing resulted in only 20 remaining today. While it is older than Ankor Wat in Cambodia (to which it is sometimes compared), it’s a much smaller site and not quite as awe-inspiring. But Mỹ Sơn is charming, quaint and interesting all the same.

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Nobody goes to Phan Rang but Vietnamese tourists. I went for the cham towers.

The Cham towers of Po Klong Garai are the only attraction in Phan Rang. At 8.00 am, I hopped on a moto taxi to check them out. I didn’t know what to expect, so when I caught sight of the red brick towers overlooking Phan Rang from the top of a hill, I was captivated.

Po Klong Garai Cham towers.

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