The one thing I’ve been looking forward to the most since I’ve been in Thailand is Loi Krathong! Loi Krathong is a festival  celebrated annually throughout Thailand, it is held on the full moon of the 12th month in the traditional Thai lunar calendar. In the western calendar this usually falls in November. In Thai “Loi” means to float and “Krathong” is a circular floating object decorated with banana leaves, flowers, a candle, and incense.  The Krathong is sent down a river, (The Ping River in Chiang Mai’s case) which symbolizes apologies to the river for all human kind has done to it. And also on Loi Krathong lanterns are set adrift in the sky, thousands of them. The night sky is dotted with these beautiful lanterns sent up to rid ones self from misfortune. I’ve been looking forward to this festival for some time now and it is finally approaching . This is just what I needed, an opportunity to cleanse my spirit and start over new.

Adventures in a Thai night bazaar , 1:30am

Less than a month away from our hypothetical departure date on December 1st. Time to start planning my escape. In truth, I started planning my escape before I even arrived in Thailand. A friend I made in South Korea totally sold me on the idea of traveling through Australia so I was looking at ticket prices even while planning for Thailand. Since being here I’ve had conversations with dozens of people who’ve worked there, or lived there, or live there, that has strengthened the idea in my mind. On the train ride up to Chiang Mai I drowned a few beers with a bartender from Sydney who gave me the address to his pub and told me stop by once I got to town. About three weeks into our journey I met a couple of Irish girls who were on the tail end of a tour through southeast Asia then headed to Sydney to work for a year or so. We’ve kept in contact and they’re both working and seem to be having a ball there. Then there’s Stephan from France. I’ve been climbing with Stephan for the past two weeks and his story is the most impressive yet. A couple of years ago he and his girlfriend decided to go to Australia with the sole purpose of making and saving as much money as possible. So they bought a van and worked as laborers picking fruit at various farms throughout the year. In the end, they led an extremely modest lifestyle and were able to save $44,000 australian ($44,660 usd). That’s a lot of loot.

It seems like life is trying to point me in Australia’s direction. But in the mountains of research that I’ve been digging through I’ve encountered a problem. Australia is mother fucking expensive. Not like OMG I’m back in the western world expensive, but expensive even if you’re only ranking expensive places. I still have some money in my bank account and could ride it out in Thailand for months on my savings. But in Australia, after purchasing a plane ticket and paying $250 for the Holiday Working Visa, I could be dead broke in only two weeks time. Only two weeks to get a job. Or……well, I’m fucked! In order to go there I’d have to use my return flight home money……. a huge gamble. The pay off could be big, but it surely wouldn’t be categorized as safe.

In any case, if I’m going to go, I need to buy a plane ticket soon. There are a million little questions swimming through my head right now. Is there someplace else close to Thailand where the dollar goes further and I can make enough to save? Can I find work there without paying the hefty price tag of their holiday working visa? Should I just call it a day and go back home?

I’m staring at a velvet lined table. The little screw-faced man on the other side is yelling at me, telling me to “hurry up and play.” Blow into my palm for good luck. Still wondering if it’s a good idea or not to let the dice fly.

It’s innately apparent that the women in Thailand have a sense of self, and tradition. When out of the cities, away from the prostitution, and in the lives of the true Thai women, there is an unyielding pride. There is a sense of protection, as well.

While sick, Thai Dad helped me out tremendously. The day my health was at its worse, he was waiting on me outside of the house, checking up every so often, and bringing food. His need to protect enraptured my sick body, and I couldn’t have been more grateful for it. It was during this time I learned a lesson about Thai house protocol.

“In Thailand, it’s disrespect for another man to walk into a woman’s house. We must stay at the door,” he explained.

This started to make sense as Thai Mom would prance in and out with the freedom of someone who owned the property, as her sister did. Thai Dad, on the other hand, always kept his distance. Popular for his front “porch” conversations, he didn’t really enter the house.

That day, he continued, “But when you sick, it’s OK. I will come inside to help you, if you need.”Enter the protector.

From the first day we met Thai Mom, the power that radiated from her was infectious. I still don’t know if the men of the house picked up on it, but I sure as hell did. She’s as nurturing as she is nurtured by her husband.

It was she who aggressively confirmed, before the housemates had spoken amongst themselves, that the female is to be protected and have her own room, with a bed. There was no discussion. It was she who would worry, and interrogate the men, if she saw me walking anywhere alone along the side streets. It was she who really sparked my interest in exploring this strength that, many times, women in other countries lack. Something, at times, I know I definitely lack. Thailand understands and reveres the matriarch for her role in the household, and in the community.

Was it just Thai Mom? I explored this budding theology with a female friend who’d traveled around South East Asia a few months back.

Megan spoke of an incident on a train in which she and Kennedy were being harassed by a Thai man. The Thai women on the train created a human wall to separate the man from them, while another woman notified the police.
They don’t play that here!

Of course, my experience is genuine to what my eyes have seen, ears have heard, and heart has felt, but this is something that was consistent with the entire trip.

As a woman, it feels good to see others who don’t dumb down their role to appease or become one of the guys. They’re women, strong and weak, emotional and logical, free and protected… unapologetic.
For this, I thank every one of them.

So we have these things called “border runs”, also known as “Visa runs”. No, no one’s got diarrhea (that I know of) and it has nothing to do with a credit card. Basically, it involves going to the nearest border, getting into the next country, and coming back. Travelers have this privilege, which often exceeds the rights of those actually living in the countries we are bordering running to. Sad, but true.

Faced with my Visa’s approaching renewal date, I decided to make this obligation into an adventure. (First, let me preface this with some advice: never engage in adventuring or border crossing hungover.)

So the day before this adventure it was Halloween (see where I’m going with this?) and, dressed as a panda, I think I drank more than I have in the past 6 months, which for me is 2.5 drinks apparently, but for Panda that was obscene. Let’s just say that when people buy you drinks of their own volition flattery begins to outweigh good judgement.

Anyhoo… I got hooked up by my local travel agent lady here in Chiang Mai. The day before I was to leave she let me pay the standard Visa run bus ticket price, but she also threw in:

• A visit to The White Temple;
• a natural hot spring;
• an Akha village;
• The Golden Triangle slow boat ride to Laos, and;
• a buffet lunch

… all for free. So with about 1 hour of sleep and eyeliner clinging to my worn-out eyes, I embarked on my adventure.

The White Temple was probably the least holy temple I’ve seen so far – unless you consider a mural with images of the devil, Spiderman, and a gas pump Divine – but fuck if it wasn’t cool! Built only 12 years ago, it was clear that the Thai gentleman that commissioned it wanted to show off while earning some grade-A karma at the same time. Mission: accomplished. People actually take pictures with a cardboard cut-out of this man while the temple interior remains empty. Thirty minutes and 2 liters of water later I’m realizing just how badly I need sunglasses.

Back on the bus and I knock out! I think I even dreamed of sleeping. Even my subconscious was exhausted. The next memorable destination was Laos. We arrived by slow boat, gliding down the Mehkong River dividing Burma, Thailand, and Laos and headed straight into a tourist trap of cheap souvenirs and food. And I totally bought stuff. And drank. Technically, this was a “it’s part of the experience” beverage, meaning it included such refreshments as:

• Turtle whiskey
• Scorpion whiskey
• Tiger penis whiskey (WTF?)
• King Cobra whiskey
• Gecko whiskey

…all animals dead and floating in a vat of their supposed co-creations. Opting to not drink a penis that day, I had my favorite animal, the King Cobra whiskey. It had a bit of bite to it, not gonna lie, and it may have knocked my subconscious out for good.

Getting my Visa was no trouble. Two more months in Thailand so I’m good to go and can now say that I’ve been in 3 countries in 1 day. When that would come up in conversation, I do not know, but hey: “It’s part of the experience!”

My favorite place, however, was the Akha village. The Akha are a hilltribe here in Thailand and as soon as we were guided into their village I saw two little girls playing. I kneeled down and starting playing with them, tickling them and pretending to take the little flowers they were picking out of their hands. Their laughter was contagious and, as the sun was setting, the first I had uttered the whole day. They acted almost of though they knew nothing else of the squalor we perceive them as living in or the pain assumed of not having any shoes to wear. As I was tickling them and getting ready to move on with the group, one of the little girls threw her arms around me and gave me the sweetest hug ever, almost as a tacit “thank you”. The kindness and beauty of a child’ love was worth every effort made to get there.

I believe we can all learn so much from children and that little girl taught me that nothing, not a hallmark holiday or the flattery of a new friend, can compare to the innocent, endearing, fun-loving nature of a child.

Part 2 of my island getaway. I’m genuinely excited to share this adventure with you.
So much more to come…
Peace and love, peace and love.